Ann Demeulemeester is one of the long-time standing brands that present during Paris Fashion Week. Without fail, Sébastien Meunier has been the safekeeper of the fashion house’s name since 2013. He has managed to innovate and take the brand into the future while keeping true to the traditions that are weaved through the creative history of the brand.
Last Friday (23/6) inside the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, Meunier presented the menswear collection for Spring/Summer 2018. Initial point of inspiration was New York’s bohème aesthetics in the ‘70s and ‘80s. Specifically legendary artist of that time Robert Mapplethorpe and his romance with Patti Smith influenced heavily the designer while creating this collection.
Fabrics, style lines, finishings and textures were all taken from that era and were shown on tall, thin, ambiguous models, some with gray hair. As they strolled down the Parisian runway in loose robes, low sitting trousers from silk corduroy and wrinkled jackets, they projected the essence of a bohemian artist.
Leather boots, corset-like belts with wide buckles and flower chockers accompanied delicate, sheer, flowy tops and tailored outerwear, thus establishing that contrast that we have come to expect and love from Ann Demeulemeester between hard and soft, feminine and masculine.
The artistic director’s vision managed to come through beautifully and recreate an era without the collection feeling retro.
Photos: Kim WestonArnold / Indigital.tv